Tag Archives: Europe

Revisiting St Petersburg with Annie


From now until June I will be spending my Thursdays at Bexhill Museum as Artist in Residence. Working with artefacts and memories of my journey I will be connecting with Lady Annie Brassey and her travels. Inspired by the archives at Bexhill Museum (in particular Annie’s collection), this is an opportunity to revisit my journey in the context of Annie’s. With Annie as my companion for my travels it seems the ideal way to return to where I began. This time I know Annie a little better, I have written to her regularly, shared her journeys and visited places she has been.

Day one and I am returning to St Petersburg. The first point at which I crossed Annie’s path. She sailed to the Baltics in 1866, I took the train 147 years later. To be honest, I was just glad to get there, anything else in terms of exploration was a bonus. After four days of travelling I had spent two nights on a train, experienced an unnerving border crossing and had been stranded in Belarus in the middle of the night with neither local currency or language. Reaching the one place I had been to previously, it felt like a huge achievement and a familiar face all at once. To meet up here with Annie was lovely, it gave purpose to my stay. I visited the Botanical Gardens, remembered the Hermitage and completed an expedition in looking for a stamp to send a postcard back. My journey had begun.

The Church on Spilled Blood

The Church on Spilled Blood, Louise Kenward 2013

Setting up at the museum this morning I have a large wall space and long wide shelf the length of the wall. The possibilities are tantalising. I come armed with materials, equipment, books and artefacts. An empty tea tin with images of the city on it, a calendar from the Hermitage from my previous visit, tickets, postcards, two small 10 kopek coins, a small stone and three acorns from the Botanical Gardens and a leaf stitched into my diary because that’s where it fell while I was writing. Covering the wall in lining paper I enjoy writing and mind mapping, remembering my trip and Annie’s, and Bexhill’s connections with St Petersburg and Russia. Kate Marsden, nurse, missionary, explorer and writer, and (one of the) founder(s) of the Bexhill Museum joined me on my journey through Siberia. Equipped with fur coat and whistle she left Bexhill in 1891 in search for a cure for leprosy. I am working next to a case dedicated to Kate, there is a spectacular photograph of her wrapped up in many many layers of furs and animal skins. In a book with the same image it describes her wardrobe:

“Her get up consisted of Jaeger clothing; a down filled ulster covered by a sheepskin coat covered by a reindeer skin cloak in which she was unable to bend or to manoeuvre herself into a sleigh.” Hodgson, 2002

Kate was nonetheless very grateful for such clothing:

“I wish to thank you for having persuaded me to wear Jaeger Clothing. Humanly speaking I owe my life to that and not taking stimulants; and I really believe that no woman could have gone through all my dangers, privations and difficulties without both of these aids to health” (Advertisement, cited in Hodgson, 2002).

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Kate Marsden in full travelling dress, image courtesy of Bexhill Museum.

Annie Brassey did not suffer such hardship in her travels. ‘Flight of the Meteor’ was published only privately (1866), so it is not possible to be certain, but her travels were not as a missionary with a view to curing leprosy and were generally more comfortable and with greater means than Kate. This isn’t to say that Annie’s travels were frivolous however, she supported many good causes and adopted an approach of education and publicity to a wider audience than Kate would have had access to. 

Like Annie, I am a collector, unlike her, I collect with my heart rather than my head. Annie was more thoughtful about her collection, without sentiment she set out (and had means) to collect the finest examples of the finest objects. A collector in a different league to those of her era, she regarded objects as a curator does today, rather than a collector of her time. This brings an interesting dialogue at the outset between me and Annie. Today I have brought my few mementoes of St Petersburg, things connecting with the country and my journey. These included the three acorns, two small coins, stone and leaf from St Petersburg, a small plastic container with lip salve in the shape of a Russian doll given as a gift by a friend before I left (in a bid to find all things tiny). Some postcards and map from the Hermitage bought the previous time I’d visited the city, two oak leaves collected from inside my car which begged to be painted gold, a guidebook on St Petersburg, a map of the city, a metro token, a theatre ticket from attending the ballet and the memory of a small metal pin of an aeroplane that was a gift from a friend and was sadly irretrievably lost in St Petersburg. I took my letter to Annie and my blog posts, and crochet pebbles to ground me.

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St Petersburg, leaf stitched into place where it fell. Louise Kenward, 2015

Surrounded by books and objects and with lining paper covering the wall I am soothed and have created a space within which I can explore. With a school visit there is little time or space to think about what I am doing. Their energy and enthusiasm is inspiring. I lower my shoulders and pick up a pen. The morning is spent drawing out thoughts and ideas, recollections and associations, a diagram of my thoughts and interests grow out of the wall. A welcome interruption and the museum curator, Julian Porter, shows me around all the Russian connections on display: a model of a Scourge ship sent to Russia during the First World War; some woolly mammoths, traditionally with a Siberian connection these were found at Eastbourne (long thought to be mole-like creatures because of the common discovery of them underground); a butterfly postcard (one of a series of allies and enemy forces) from World War I. Press cuttings had been found, connecting Bexhill and Russia: Bexhill Observer reports of the Northern Lights in June 1908, later discovered to be the effect from the meteor crash landing in Tunguska, Siberia; and the role the Mayor, a Mr Mayer, of Bexhill had in discovering Anna Pavlova.

I am wondering where to start, how to capture all this, what an incredible breadth of resource and knowledge is held at the museum, and in Julian’s head. I am amazed at how well connected Bexhill is to the rest of the world, and so many eras past, what happens when you scratch the surface. However, the magic is yet to be revealed. Within the archives a number of Russian coins, several from the time Annie would have visited, were found. A second rummage in the archives turns up nothing less than an emerald from the Brassey collection itself, complete with original label. This is Annie’s emerald, collected from Siberia. It is mighty, weighty and rather wonderful.

Bexhill to Bexhill

Brassey Collection, Bexhill Museum, Siberian Emerald (Louise Kenward, 2015)

Bexhill to Bexhill

Siberian Emerald, Brassey Collection, Bexhill Museum (Louise Kenward, 2015)

 

In Conversation with Annie is supported by an Award from the Heritage Lottery Fund.

Notes from a Journal…Arriving in China

Friday 18th October

“Waking up in China to a densely built up landscape. Gone are the forests of Siberia and the golden plains of Mongolia. It is autumn again, time goes backwards and we briefly travel through more familiar pine forests and woodland. Auburn leaves cling stubbornly to branches. It is rocky and flat alternately. There is evidence of agriculture with ploughed fields, the first since Siberia. The view is changing much more quickly now. Inhabited to wild, agriculture to city scape. House construction is different, older properties with tiled roofs. Evidence of man is more frequent here…”

It felt like I’d been cocooned by the train, my home for a full 7 days and nights of the three week journey. I have come to the end of my Trans Siberian/Trans Mongolian train journey. Nearly three weeks after leaving Moscow I am about to arrive in Beijing, leaving my new family behind as we all take our own paths onwards…

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Last morning on the Trans Mongolian train, dawn slowly brings China into view, Louise Kenward (2013)

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My view has been framed in this way for such a long time, I will miss the train. Louise Kenward (2013)

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Arriving in China, Louise Kenward (2013)

Croatia

Arriving at Split by ferry was such a great way to start my journey through Croatia. The sun had only just come up as I left the boat, so I missed the view of the beautiful Dalmation coastline but it was a great start to the day. A huge ship, travelling from Ancona in Italy, there was only a couple of dozen of us on it. It seemed a little excessive but I was grateful it was still running. Many have stopped at this time of year. My next mission to find the train station was not difficult, I crossed the road, it was not much further than that, stumbled upon as I made my way towards the city centre. Train tickets through Croatia cannot be bought online so with great relief I finally was able to arrange my trip to Budapest, with an unexpected afternoon in Zagreb as there are no night trains currently. This has now stripped my time in Budapest back so far I have only one day there. The journey during the daytime will give me chance to see much more of the countryside though.

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Split, Louise Kenward 2014

Bexhill to Bexhill

Advent celebrations in Split, Louise Kenward 2014

A UNESCO heritage city, Split is (as you might expect) beautiful. The old town, the palace, is a maze of narrow paved streets with towering walls filled with peoples homes, shops, restaurants and cafes. Interspersed with squares where advent is in full swing, with Christmas lights, decorations, music and market stalls. The Riva (waterfront) is filled with people visiting the Christmas markets and enjoying drinks overlooking the harbour. The water is so still it is the ‘wateriest’ water I have seen. At dusk the lights skip across the ripples like a three dimensional impressionist painting.

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Split waterfront, Riva (Louise Kenward, 2014)

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Split sunset, Louise Kenward (2014)

Of my three days here, I spent a morning in Trogir, another UNESCO heritage site, another town filled with tiny streets and tall walls of shutters and terraces. Bridges link the town across the water that surrounds. I would have loved to take the ferry back to Split, but the trouble with travelling in low season is that many things like this are closed. The coastline is pretty and there is chance to island hop in the warmer months. I shall have to make do with my views from climbing the hill at Split for now.

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From the top of the hill, overlooking Split (Louise Kenward, 2014)

The sun has been an unexpected welcome addition to my few days here, with the introduction of the ‘Bora’ I have enjoyed blue skies and sunshine. The ‘Bora’ is the cold north wind that is said to make people a little crazy…there is apparently a law in Dubrovnik that renders people only 50% culpable of any criminal act during the Bora! I am still not 100% certain Lana is not pulling my leg.

Leaving Split I must be still half asleep on the train, having dozed off I wake to thick white fog and dustings of snow on the trees. I feel I am still dreaming, it is a fairytale land of almost monochrome. I can see nothing else but more of the same. Travelling out along the coastline and up through mountains we have gone from island views and seaside beauty to rocky barren splendour into a wilderness of winter wonder. The journey has been worth the 200 kuna for the sightseeing alone, a beautiful journey. Most of the trip lacking any evidence of dirty industry or paths of human existence in many places at all. We stop occasionally at apparently abandoned train stations where occasionally someone gets on or off, each promptly manned by smartly dressed attendants in red peaked caps.

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Split to Zagreb train journey, Louise Kenward 2014

It more than makes up for the lack of refreshments available which has meant I’ve broken into one of my trays of sweets for taking home…

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Split to Zagreb train journey, Louise Kenward 2014

Le Meurice

Annie certainly knew how to travel. On her first trip, a train journey to Switzerland, she stopped at Paris and stayed at Le Meurice. Le Meurice is still there, with rooms that still overlook the Jardin des Tuileries. I didn’t get past reception but did enjoy the most expensive pot of chocolat I have ever had. A heady cocktail of very rich chocolat and chandeliers set me up for an afternoon walking round Paris.

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Le Meurice, Paris (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill to Bexhill

Chocolat at Le Meurice (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill to Bexhill

Le Meurice, Paris (Louise Kenward, 2014)

 

Moscow

Moscow, Sunday 6th October

“Arrived 7.55am on sleeper train from St Petersburg, leaving at 23.55 last night.

It felt a one time luxurious cabin with cream and red curtains of swags and tails at the window and a vase of artificial yellow roses on the table. It had seen better days, but more than hinted at how train travel had been regarded. We were given glasses in ornate silver metal holders filled with hot water on request. Although soon discover they are not for lingering with as disgruntled staff take them back again.

I share this cabin with Leah, Shenny and Cynthia. Two bunks above and two below. Bags and cases are wedged into every available cubby hole. Shenny soon begins her morning routine of insisting on photographs of us all, at every junction in the journey, in every possible combination, from every perspective. An almost hour by hour account of the next three weeks of my journey commences. An enthusiasm I have never encountered before. A broad grinning face and warm demeanour, she is impossible to refuse and a joy to be around. Counting our days through the journey to Beijing she is totally un phased by anything. A level of energy I can only imagine…”

Bexhill to Bexhill

Waiting for the train at Moscow, Louise Kenward (2013)

Trans Siberian Train, day 2 (or 3)

Wednesday, 9th October – Trans Siberian Train

“8am local time (somewhere between Moscow and Beijing), 6am Moscow time – the train will remain on Moscow time until we reach Beijing. This initially entertains me but is becoming increasingly confusing. I adjust my watch accordingly so as to ease myself in to changing time zones, and to arrive in China at a reasonable time of day. It makes for more complicated station stops though, assuming the train is running to schedule.

I’ve just realised the last entry was probably yesterday, so Tuesday not Monday, or Wednesday, possibly.

Early morning calm and more trees are yellowing or have lost their covering for the winter. A soft pink/peach filled the sky earlier but now it is a purple grey with smatterings of blue and white. The stark trees continue to line the tracks. The ‘bathroom’ is becoming increasingly fragrant. Ingenuity through necessity I’ve had a warm wash from the boiler this morning, taking great care not to drop anything on the floor.

The attendant has returned the creased, yellowed, slightly stiff netting to the lower parts of the windows, serving neither function or aesthetic. It is removed again as soon as she is out of sight, folded unceremoniously and stuffed through the elastic cord suspending it, so we can watch the travelling landscape. 

The gentle swaying of the train and the noise as everything moves with it is vaguely calming. The temperature reads 27ºC above the door at the end of the corridor – it is very hot, we are not allowed to open the windows. We’ve tried, they are quickly closed again. Communication in this respect is clear and facial gestures and hand signals indicate that window opening is not approved of. I don’t know why. Perhaps to add to our discomfort. It feels punishing rather than comforting. Two more time changes are passed through and my watch is duly altered. I think that makes five, or six, and another night is spent on a train. I’ve relinquished myself to the journey and its time frame. The one thing that is certain is that the train will ultimately arrive in China. Everything else is frivolous detail.
For the wilderness, there is great activity on the railway. Lines are busy, long freight trains take forever to pass, blocking light for many minutes at a time.”