There are three places that come to mind that could arguably be described as times when I have stayed in the ‘wilderness’. Camping in the outback of Australia, sleeping in a swag under the stars in the red centre, near Uluru. Staying with a hill tribe in the Northern Thai mountains, living in a wooden hut on stilts and sleeping on a roll out mattress underneath a mosquito net. And here, next to the Maligne river in a ‘wilderness hostel’ just outside of Jasper, Maligne Canyon. I have never liked the idea of camping and hate caravans – limited access to washing facilities and the cramped-ness of it all does not bring me joy. These times during my trip have, however, been some of the most memorable and enjoyable times I’ve had. Something about being so close to nature perhaps, the simplicity of life and the time and space it allows to soak up the landscape without the usual distractions of technology and ‘civilisation’.
Wilderness hostel, Maligne Canyon (Louise Kenward, 2014)
woods, Maligne Canyon (Louise Kenward, 2014)
It encourages a slower more considered way of being, even if just for a few days. I am not relishing the idea of not being able to have a hot shower while I’m here, but I know I have gone longer on this trip without one of those (see ‘five days on a train’). I also have a whole new pack of wet wipes thanks to Shelagh who off-loaded them on to me in Borneo, and I am very glad to have carried them this far. Everything has had its use on this trip.
Maligne Canyon, Louise Kenward 2014
The hours of daylight are long at this time of year, it is still light outside at 10pm, which makes going out to the long drop a bit less of a chore. The welcome was warm and hearty, and I have the whole cabin to myself. I can hear the sound of the river rushing past and am listening out for bears. One was seen yesterday in the front yard. Reading Bill Bryson’s ‘A Walk in the Woods’ is a decent accompaniment to my stay. He brings helpful advice on bears, having done extensive research for his hike along the Appalachian Trail. So if it’s a grizzly, climb a tree, if it’s a black bear, stand your ground or play dead. Just make sure you can tell the difference. Despite this, Bill also gives good examples of where people did the complete opposite and survived, and where they followed this advice and came off rather the worse for wear. Speaking to others I have had similarly vague advice…I think the general theme is to keep out of their way.
Maligne Canyon, Louise Kenward 2014
Maligne Canyon, Louise Kenward 2014
I’ve seen six bears on separate occasions since my arrival to Canada. Two today at the side of the road, apparently un-phased by the gathering ‘bear jam’ queueing up along the highway as they forage for new shoots. Two I watched while in a boat off the coast of Tofino, while on a bear watching trip, and two I have seen outside of the hostels I’ve been staying at, where there was also elk. The closeness to wildlife has been wonderful.
Bear watching, Vancouver Island (Louise Kenward, 2014)
…Alas, it is possible to get too much of a good thing. After a couple of days and a sudden influx of travellers, the tranquility was lost. I returned to Jasper and booked into a very comfortable B&B for the night, with an appreciation of hot tea and soap (and the internet).