Tag Archives: Canada

….more trains

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Realised only after posting that my last post spoke very little about the actual train journey. So much to talk about I am easily distracted at this stage. Aside from saying that travelling by train really is the greatest way to travel, even more so when it is comfortable, which mostly my journey has been. Even throughout South East Asia and Indonesia (aside from one delayed ten hour train journey in a ‘hard seat’ and a very packed carriage to Nanning, and a particularly cold night in Thailand – what is it with hot countries and their air conditioning?) it has not been arduous. Travelling through Canada I am, however, being looked after very well. I have certainly travelled in the right direction. At a time when I am getting a little weary of 8 bed dorm rooms and shared spaces where you have to label absolutely everything you put in the fridge, remembering your room key to go for a pee in the night and being woken up by the ubiquitous plastic bag rustling at various ungodly hours because someone has just arrived or is preparing to leave, or has just decided to look for something in the middle of the night. Hostels have been a great and affordable way of staying in some great places, and places where I have met some great people. There are times when it is nice to have your own space though. So having my own cabin and being well fed on the train is really very nice.

There is, however, something just as wonderful travelling in sleeper carriages where you share with several other strangers. For one, you meet local people who are mostly travelling through necessity rather than pleasure, to visit family or for work. While it hasn’t always been possible to find out very much about many of the people I shared these six foot square spaces with, because I didn’t speak their language and they didn’t speak mine (although usually more than me). But even when that was the case I still have some great memories of meeting people, where we would share food, help out with shuffling cases around so we all fitted in to the allocated spaces, and generally being pleasant company for the duration of the journey.

I have also met many people on this part of my journey. A dining carriage and communal sitting areas with drinks and viewing carriages make for an altogether different experience, and in many ways a more sociable one too. I’ve met many from Canada and the US, some Australian’s and Europeans, including a few from England who, when feeling slightly homesick last week, I nearly rugby tackled to have chance to speak to them and find out where they were from (and just to hear the accent and share common ground).

But mostly the journey is about what is going on outside. I end my journey in almost the same way as I started it, with an epic train ride of several days across the one country. The length of time and immensity of Canada reminds me of the Trans Mongolian train and the vastness of Siberia, in many ways it is just as beautifully bleak and inhospitable (certainly during the winter). The excitement of seeing a break in the landscape for a house with a wisp of smoke as it was in Russia. A break to the endless view of birch trees. While in Canada it is a grain elevator or pool of water, farm or the like. The mountains of Alberta a distant echo of the snow capped mountains through Mongolia, the prairies, of the expanse of Siberia. The same but different. The duration of the landscape remains immense and my captivation with it, constant.

And just as I again set out with particular intentions, my keyboard has run away with me. At this point in my trip I am being reminded of so many other earlier times, an inevitable part of the last stretch I feel. Bear with me, I shall talk trains more…

Coast to coast by train.

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Canada is another epic train journey for me. I will travel from Vancouver to Halifax before I leave Canada for the US next month. Half way across and I have left the Pacific Ocean and passed through the magnificence of the Rockies, journeying into the vastness of the prairies. For this stretch of my trip I am also fortunate to be supported by Via Rail who have organised my train travel.

A sad farewell to the mountains, Louise Kenward (2014)

A sad farewell to the mountains, Louise Kenward (2014)

Dawn on the train, waking up to a new landscape, Louise Kenward (2014)

Dawn on the train, waking up to a new landscape, Louise Kenward (2014)

This is one of the trips that, in making and discussing my plans, many people  told me, was a trip they too would like to take. On the train there are many people travelling from Vancouver to Toronto, often combining it with the Rocky Mountaineer and an Alaskan cruise. Certainly the cruise is something I would like to come back for, with chance to see the incredible Alaskan coastline, wildlife and Northern Lights. It seems a shame that so many people make so few stops beyond Vancouver though, there is so much of Canada and all so varied, yet it does not seem to be travelled as much as you’d think. Saskatchewan has just one hostel for instance, in Regina. The first night there I was the only person in the 8 bed dorm. It is not served well by public transport either which makes it trickier to negotiate too. Nonetheless I have been able to navigate my way to Bexhill, and am looking forward to the rest of my journey across Canada.

Train travel through Canada, Louise Kenward (2014)

Train travel through Canada, Louise Kenward (2014)

It's a new day, it's a new dawn... (Louise Kenward, 2014)

It’s a new dawn, it’s a new day… (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Nothing beats waking up to the early light to peak out the window and discover the new landscape awaiting. This journey will also take my total time travelled by train to almost a month from the start of my trip last September. I have already travelled through three time zones and such contrasting scenery as might be possible. During my time in Regina (capital of Saskatchewan, one of two) I have learned that there were previously mountains in Saskatchewan…and that they were blown away. The Royal Saskatchewan Museum is another wonderful museum, Canada certainly is good at museums. Focussed on the natural world, it gives a lovely overview of the history of the area and how it has evolved through time. From being under water and host to various sea life, to home to the dinosaurs, the impact of the ice age and the role of the glaciers in forming the prairies we see today. There are also galleries devoted to the First Nations. In Assiniboia it was the Assiniboin tribe who were native to the region of Bexhill and surrounds. So called after their unique cooking method, using hot stones to heat water and bake food. As in Australia this is not an entirely resolved relationship. Although a little more time has passed and a number of apologies have been made.

Travelling by train through Canada, Louise Kenward (2014)

Travelling by train through Canada, Louise Kenward (2014)

Travelling through Canada by train, Louise Kenward (2014)

Travelling through Canada by train from the comfort of a cabin, Louise Kenward (2014)

Prairie country, Louise Kenward (2014)

Prairie country, Louise Kenward (2014)

This is the land of Sitting Bull, the Cyprus Hills and many other stories that seem of folklore before I arrived. I have more to find out and learn…

Bexhill, Canada (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill, Canada (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Elevators, eh

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Aside from learning that the railways are king in rural Saskatchewan, I also had a lesson on elevators this week.

Central to life in this area for the farming community, elevators are also the reason there is a place called Bexhill in Canada at all. Strictly speaking the train was first, but the elevator was needed for the train to have reason to stop. They are one of the few landmarks in prairie country of any height, so are significant in their stature as well as their function. In 1927 when the railway track was extended from Assiniboia southwards, elevators were built at the stops the train made. Principally for the transfer of the grain harvest, they would also be used for other things, to store coal for people to access for example. In Bexhill there was another shed alongside the elevator, heated, so that cream and milk could be left out for the train to collect, and not freeze in the winter. A flag would be put up to signal to the train coming through that there was something to pick up, be it produce or people. “You could set your watch by it” I’ve been told several times while in Assiniboia, the train was so punctual, coming through twice a day. It provided a link between farmers and their families, and the wider community. Everyone had a few cows, so could sell milk or make cream to sell as well as the grain they grew. Nowadays lentils, peas and canola grow as well as wheat and barley.

Bexhill Elevator, photograph courtesy of Assiniboia and District Museum, taken by Lilia Martinson 1978

Bexhill Elevator, photograph courtesy of Assiniboia and District Museum, taken by Lilia Martinson (August,1978)

Bexhill after the elevator was removed, Louise Kenward (2014)

Bexhill after the elevator was removed, Louise Kenward (2014)

I’ve been so concerned about the winter times, having been urged so severely not to arrive until at least the end of May, that I’m curious what does happen here when everything is frozen, covered in snow, and 40 below. Art tells me that the roads would be accessible still, that he remembers having to walk home from school on occasions, following the snow fence for his bearings. He also told me that more than once he had tipped over with the wagon as compacted snow makes a solid ridge, less forgiving than that the more recently fallen. In general though it seems that things just carry on, the elevator would be heated so continues working and people just don’t go out so much, if at all.

Replica of the Bexhill elevator, Assiniboia Museum (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Replica of the Bexhill elevator, Assiniboia Museum (Louise Kenward, 2014)

The elevator in Bexhill continued to be in operation for nearly 50 years, and remained a landmark for a good deal longer. But as horse and wagon moved to tractor and trucks, it was easier to transport the grain to neighbouring Assiniboia. Five miles along the road was no longer much of a distance to travel. As trucks got bigger and carried larger loads, so the smaller elevators could not cope. Fewer and larger elevators are being used today and many have been dismantled. A unique icon of Canada they are of historical and architectural significance as well as uniquely identifiable markers on the landscape.

Photograph of Bexhill elevator taken the evening before it was demolished. Very kindly contributed by Rose and Dave Young, photograph by Dave's uncle.

Photograph of Bexhill elevator taken the evening before it was demolished. Very kindly contributed by Rose and Dave Young, photograph by Dave’s uncle, George Young (1982).

And so, Art goes down in history as the last farmer to deliver to the Bexhill elevator in 1976. He is mentioned in all the local history books and is something of a local legend, everyone knows Art. I am very lucky to have had such a good guide.

Bexhill, Saskatchewan

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Bexhill, Saskatchewan (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill, Saskatchewan (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill, Saskatchewan (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill, Saskatchewan (Louise Kenward, 2014)

The reason Bexhill is here at all is the train line. In 1912 the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) extended the railway line to just outside of a town called Leeville which promptly changed it’s name and moved to link to the line. The town became Assiniboia, which recently celebrated its centenary. Some time later the CPR built track south of the town and grain elevators were built to enable farmers to transport their harvest more efficiently. The first stop south of Assiniboia was named Bexhill in 1927. 

The elevator served a community for almost 50 years. After transport developments, with more farmers owning trucks rather than relying on horses and wagons, it was easier to drive the 5 miles to Assiniboia. The elevator closed and was later demolished. Bexhill was relinquished to the history books.

While conducting research in the UK I was repeatedly told “there’s nothing there” “you’ll be disappointed” and given the distinct impression of ‘not to bother’. Alas, I am not put off that easily. The more intrigued I became. 

Arriving here yesterday I was met by Art. Art was the last farmer to deliver to the elevator at Bexhill. His father farmed Bexhill land, where his son now lives and works. We went exploring. 

Art, Louise Kenward (2014)

Art, Louise Kenward (2014)

Art, Louise Kenward (2014)

Art, Louise Kenward (2014)

Still a sign, he had a hunch it was still there. And today, after yesterday and this afternoon we found the remains of the elevator. There is no base, no building remains, but there was this. Definitely elevator Art said, and a can that carried the grain.

elevator remains, Bexhill (Louise Kenward, 2014)

elevator remains, Bexhill (Louise Kenward, 2014)

(slightly crumpled) can that carried grain, Bexhill )Louise Kenward, 2014)

(slightly crumpled) can that carried grain, Bexhill )Louise Kenward, 2014)

We also visited the museum today which has a ‘Bexhill’ sign and replica of the elevator that stood in Bexhill.

Bexhill elevator and sign, Assiniboia Museum (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill elevator and sign, Assiniboia Museum (Louise Kenward, 2014)

So much more than I expected, the area is so peaceful we sat and listened to the birds for quite a while. Two deer jumped across the tracks and I saw a snake. Three ticks removed, two wet feet after stumbling into the well overflow and new friends of Art and Rosalie who have been so generous with their time and warmth. 

Each community I’ve visited I haven’t known what would greet me. Everything was an unknown. But each time I have been most struck by humanity and kindness. Circumnavigating the globe I have again and again been overwhelmed by the kindness of strangers. A cliche for a reason, I am now on the final leg of my journey and have encountered so many people with no reason to be nice to me at all, but time and again people have been so generous. 

However, this is far from over and I still have much to say about Bexhill, Sunbeam Farm and Canada. To be continued….

Sunbeam Farm

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My journey with Annie sadly left the ‘Sunbeam’ in Australia, with Annie’s ‘Last Voyage’. However, it is not the end of my story with the Brasseys, or with Annie. I pick up again with Annie in Toronto in a couple of weeks time and join her on ‘A Cruise on the Eothen’ through to Nova Scotia before venturing into America.

The ‘Sunbeam’ alas is also in Canada, having lent it’s name to the farm built for Annie’s husband, Lord Thomas Brassey, a few years after Annie’s death. Lord Brassey was involved in various philanthropic ventures, not least in helping to colonise the prairies at the end of the nineteenth century. Settlers had arrived in Saskatchewan and an advert was placed encouraging people to join them. Brassey set up the ‘Canadian Co-operative Colonisation Company’ inviting families to Indian Head where they would have a home and a piece of land, training in farming techniques and support to make a go of it in the new country.

“An advertisement appeared in England early in 1887 encouraging potential emigrants to settle in Qu’Appelle. One of the large farms included in the advertisement was the Brassey Estate. Readers were told ‘Professor H. Tanner, Government Examiner in AGriculture in the Dept. of Science, South Kensington, London, is now engaged in establishing a settlement…Special care will be taken to secure immigrants of exceptionable character and with a practical knowledge of farm life and its requirements…'” (from Qu’Appelle: Footprints to Progress)

“The sudden decision of the authorities in 1881 to run the CPR [Canadian Pacific Railway] along the Qu’Appelle Valley directed the first movement of immigrants to the southern prairies. During 1882 this particular district was one of the great lodestones of that movement. Literally all trails led to the Qu’Appelle” (p27 Echoes of the Qu’Appelle Lakes District, T. Petty)

This should have been a successful venture. Unfortunately with harsh climate and poor management the farm did not succeed. The colonisation did, however, and remains a community today, albeit different from the one envisaged by Lord Brassey 127 years ago.

Sunbeam Farm, Indian Head (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Sunbeam Farm, Indian Head (Louise Kenward, 2014)