Thailand, elephants and a hill tribe.

Time in Northern Thailand, with the Karen hill tribe was such a special part of my journey. I wrote about it at the time here and here but return to it now as part of the ‘trail of breadcrumbs’.

I had planned a week in Thailand to draw breath after a fast paced journey from the UK, overland by train. In just over 2 months I had already travelled many thousands of miles. This was ‘free time’ before heading south towards Malaysia. Meeting friends in Hong Kong it was suggested that when in Thailand I should visit elephants and hill tribes. With a good deal of research I came across Lek, a wonderful woman who does many brave and generous things to rescue elephants and campaigns for animal welfare. Signing up for the ‘Journey to Freedom‘ project I had no idea what to expect. It was a truly unique and incredible experience. I shan’t retell my story again, as tempting as it is to reminisce. Instead I include it as the next ‘breadcrumb’ and the first time I gave my pebbles to people.

Both were women in the hill tribe, one was the ‘mother’ of the group and the other a woman who could have been missed completely. She appeared on my first night, sat next to me at the camp fire and exchanged glances and smiles. A kind of contact hard to describe and happens most significantly when there aren’t words. Through the week she was almost ghostlike, drifting in and out of the shadows, but always close by.

I took some photos and had them printed to send back from Chiang Mai with the pebbles, hoping they would make some sense.

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Italy residency.

Eight artists and 7 days in Corigliano D’Otranto finished on Tuesday. I arrived by train, taking 7 days to reach the south of Italy, through Paris, Turin and Venice, the route of the Orient Express. Then on to Bologna to catch the night train to Lecce and finally Corigliano.

I met the rest of the Navigato artists last Tuesday, a sunny day on the ‘heel’ of the country. All of us connected by Bexhill and the De La Warr Pavilion who supported the project. A meal far too big for any of us to get through kicked off proceedings and set the standard for the trip.

Seven days later and there have been performances, dinners, drinks, processions, work made, work hung, work seen and dismantled again. Trips to surrounding areas have been made and dips for the brave in the Adriatic. Gelato, pastries and coffee have been consumed in varying quantities. New friends have been made.

I have been shown lace making by Joanna and great warmth and kindness by many other local people. In return I ran workshops with the lovely Penny, where we talked about stones, walls and castles. Local school children received us warmly and produced some wonderful work.

I have a few more days in Italy and then head to Croatia. A long and winding train journey through Europe to meet Christiana in Vienna for the Christmas markets.

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Rosa, Giuseppe, Penny, Francis and me (and another lady who’s name sadly escapes me, who makes lace) on our visit to the ‘mission’ in Corigliano.

P1240934.JPGWorkshops at the school, Louise Kenward (2014)

IMG_1560.JPGMaking work, a wall of contemplation, close to the station where I spent many hours… (Louise Kenward, 2014)

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Workshops held at the school, Corigliano with support from the wonderful Anna. Run in collaboration with Penny (Louise Kenward, 2014)

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Dolce, Louise Kenward (2014)

P1250058.JPGCorigliano, Louise Kenward 2014

Le Meurice

Annie certainly knew how to travel. On her first trip, a train journey to Switzerland, she stopped at Paris and stayed at Le Meurice. Le Meurice is still there, with rooms that still overlook the Jardin des Tuileries. I didn’t get past reception but did enjoy the most expensive pot of chocolat I have ever had. A heady cocktail of very rich chocolat and chandeliers set me up for an afternoon walking round Paris.

Bexhill to Bexhill

Le Meurice, Paris (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill to Bexhill

Chocolat at Le Meurice (Louise Kenward, 2014)

Bexhill to Bexhill

Le Meurice, Paris (Louise Kenward, 2014)

 

Moscow

Moscow, Sunday 6th October

“Arrived 7.55am on sleeper train from St Petersburg, leaving at 23.55 last night.

It felt a one time luxurious cabin with cream and red curtains of swags and tails at the window and a vase of artificial yellow roses on the table. It had seen better days, but more than hinted at how train travel had been regarded. We were given glasses in ornate silver metal holders filled with hot water on request. Although soon discover they are not for lingering with as disgruntled staff take them back again.

I share this cabin with Leah, Shenny and Cynthia. Two bunks above and two below. Bags and cases are wedged into every available cubby hole. Shenny soon begins her morning routine of insisting on photographs of us all, at every junction in the journey, in every possible combination, from every perspective. An almost hour by hour account of the next three weeks of my journey commences. An enthusiasm I have never encountered before. A broad grinning face and warm demeanour, she is impossible to refuse and a joy to be around. Counting our days through the journey to Beijing she is totally un phased by anything. A level of energy I can only imagine…”

Bexhill to Bexhill

Waiting for the train at Moscow, Louise Kenward (2013)

The Wall (the Great one)

There are many great places I have visited, few are bold enough to describe themselves as such, but ‘the wall’ is one of them (and rightly so). The lakes and barrier reef others. Typing ‘the great’ into a search engine guesses the rest of the search as ‘Gatsby’ ‘Depression’ ‘Escape’ or ‘British Bake Off’! All very grounding cultural references. The Great Wall of China was a significant landmark to reach, not least because it was a true marker of the distance travelled. Crossing Russia and Mongolia marked a significant crossing from anything I had encountered before. I had truly left my known world behind, and it would not look the same again.

I needed to mark this significant place in the only way I could, I left a pebble covered in crochet. Leaving one of the ‘breadcrumbs’ at The Great Wall felt like it could be an easy decision. Of course, any landmark as big as this ‘needed’ to be marked. But I didn’t want it to work in that way, those landmarks are ‘marked’ well enough already. I didn’t want my trail of breadcrumbs to be left in all the obvious places, they couldn’t fight with such icons. I wanted them to be quiet pieces that were seemingly random, left in hidden, unsuspecting places. And, despite its size, the accessible parts of the wall are scrutinised routinely, steps swept, litter picked and few secret spots remain. I ventured to find one though, and am not under too much illusion that it will have inhabited its little space for very long before discovered and discarded.

The Great Wall of China, Louise Kenward (2013)

The Great Wall of China, Louise Kenward (2013)

Bexhill to Bexhill

Trail of Breadcrumbs at Great Wall, Louise Kenward (2013)

Bexhill to Bexhill

View for breadcrumb from wall, Louise Kenward (2013)